day 6 continued-- the saga of the 23 km hike from Cour Cheverny to Cande Sue Mer

After leaving the Chateau de Troussay, Bill and Lin Sue continued the trek through woods and moors trying to make our way to the next Chateau in Fourgeres sur Bievre. At one point, our instructions told us to "walk the road for about 400 meters and turn right onto the second track". Small problem- there was only one track and it was located about 200meters from we were.

Dutifully, Bill and I walked to about 400 meters and saw what looked to be an irrigation ditch. We continued along the road for another 400 meters and saw nothing. Bill went down the ditch to see if it met up with anything (it WAS supposed to be the roadbed of a disused railwat line). Lin Sue waited on the side of the road until she could see only the tip of Bill's red baseball cap way off in the fields at which point, it was clear that Bill was committed to this path and she may was well join him. The ditch ended up joing the correct path. (Yes, the first one we saw located at 200 meters with the yellow markers). So, while a bit inconvenient and bewildering, not too bad. We made our way through the fields and forest and arrived at the Chateau de Fougeres. This is a small fortified catle from the 15th century. Wjile we didn't enter it, the grounds were very pretty. (Lin Sue was already exhausted.)

Oh, did I say that it was unseasonably hot and sunny? Bill and I both were very sunburned and dehydrated. We were immensely pleased to find water fountains to refill our water bottles.
More to come.....

Day 6 of Lin Sue and Bill's hike we travel 23 km from Cour Cheverny to Cande Sur Beuvron

The day started late but well. Our first stop was the Chateau de Troussay, a Renaissance manor house that has only been sold twice in its long life. Because the chateau did not open until 10:30, we did not get our normal early morning start.
The Chateau Troussay is also still occupied by the owners so only part of it is open to the public and only with a guide. The tours were conducted by 2 young girls but only in French. Because it was clear that Lin Sue did not speak French, the supervisor (so it appeared) offered to have one of the girls do a private tour for us in English.

While she struggled for some words in English, our guide did a very nice job. She gave us quite a few interesting details about the original Renaissance furniture and architecture. She was very sweet

Our biggest question came at the end of the tour when she left us alone in the house full of treasures (with our backpacks) as she went to provide the heavy entrance keys to her counterpart in the front of the house.

More to come.

Bill and Lin Sue hike 14 km from Bracieux to Cour Cheverny,France

This leg of the trip is short-Only 14 km- because we were given time to explore some of the local private residences (the grounds as we passed by) and the Chateau Cheverny.

We crossed through forests and along ponds' edges (much higher than usual, we think) before arriving at the picturesque town of Cheverny.

Now, just one aside, I may not have been mentioning this but we have grown to respect the sounds of dogs barking and the strength of good wire fences. Clearly, small town in the French countryside don't get a lot of hikers (or much traffic of any kind) and the local canine residents make it a point to note that strangers are unwelcome. Just thought I would mention it, lest I forget.

The Chateau Cheverny is stunning. It is stilly privately owned by a Marquis and his wife, I believe it was a gift from his parent the Vicount and his lovely wife. It is famous for its hunting dogs (there are still 70 or so dogs in residence. We were unable to visit the trophy house this time around because it was undergoing maintanence work. We remembered all the stag horns hangong from all the walls and down from the ceiling. On one wall was a stained glass representation of the Chateau Cheverny and her hunting dogs.

After touring the house quickly, we sat on a bench on the grounds and watched as two tractors moved the grounds. At one point, it looked as though Bill would get run over by one as it backed up!

It's fortunate both of us have serious allergy medications with us as the newly mown grass would have wiped us out.

Dinner was amazing. Lin Sue did not like the menu included in our tour (not up for duckling leg as she had eaten coq au vin the evening before) so she upgraded. Holy cow! The appetizer was a warm goat cheese sald with fruit (standrd Lin Sue favorite) and the main course was a fillet of beef. Yummy! She even shared with Bill as he ate his very nicely prepared duckling. While Bill was given a plate of three goat cheeses from the region, Lin Sue got to choose from a platter full of different kinds (this has been the case in other restaurnts but amusing on this occasion because Bill wasn't offered the choice). Dessert was the biggest difference. Bill had an apple tart while Lin got an assortment of four desserts - each incredibly rich. I cannot tell you how happy I was. Haha.

Lin Sue and Bill journey from Chambord to Bracieux through the Boulagne National Forest and the Chateau de Villesavin

We started off in sunshine this morning. Taking one last look at the Chateau Chambord (we could see our footprints in the gravel paths from our after dinner walk the previous evening after "the peasants had returned home") we took a path that followed the Cosson River. We walked through the typical fields filled with crops sporting yellow flowers (will we ever know what the heck those plants were?) We passed shhep in and out of enclosures - 2 of the ones ambling right outside the forest were already shorn so we doubt they were feral.

We passed through the Boulogne National forest and had a brief picnic. We knew that the Chateau de Villesavin - our next stop- would be closed from 12 to 2 pm so we had some time. As we sat at a picnic table at one of the forest's crossroads, we watched two forestry logger trucks transfer logs from one truck bed to the other. Clearly, these guys wre professionals. They were incredibly precise with the log crane

We were still a half hour early when we arrived a Chateau de Villesavin and had to cool our heels outside. Bill took the opportunity to scout the area, Lin Sue sat in the sunshine and listened to tunes on her iPod.

The chateau is privately owned and is in the process of being renovated. As the family still occupies part of the building, only guided tours are allowed. There were quite a few people waiting to enter at 2Pm when we purchased our tickets. Unfortunately, the tours were entirely in French. The gentleman taking/selling admission tickets said that he would take Bill and I separately at 2,which he did. It was really very special as we went through the house. The kitchens were still as they had been in the Renaissance (slanting floor with a small hole in the wall for easily mopping up). And the family retained some rare objects (water filtering cistern and an original bust of Moliere). The most interesting part of the tour was the guide himself. He was a jack of all trades, apparently. He had been working on the restoration of the house for 5 years (showing us the faux marble wainscoting and asking that we note the difference on the outside of the house re: the restored windows etc). He spoke slowly so that Lin Sue might follow the conversation as well- really very nice. There were some incredibly shaggy donkeys - who were beginning to shed their winter coats and a dove cote (no pigeons or doves either for that matter)

We finished our hike in Brassieux, a pleasant city on the banks of the Beuron River across from a 16th century covered market.

The hotel, Le Cygne, had a restaurant down the street. Dinner got off to a rare start as Bill told the maitrede that he loved him when we were informed the entire restaurant was non-smoking.

Lin Sue and Bill talk about their visit to Chateau Chambord

As I had noted in our prevous post, we had some connectivity issues so we've not been up to date on our blog posting.

The forecast had noted rain but Lin sue and Bill had not had a problem so far, though the sky was a bit overcast. The paths continued to be a bit muddy in some spots but not terribly bad.

We missed the swans in the castle moats and canals-- it must be a bit early in the year for them but I am curious as to where the are. There were almost no ducks to be seen either. We took lots of photos as we neared the chateau Chambord. It must be one of our very favorites.
We checked and and dropped off our bags. We stopped by the souvenior shops and bought tickets for Chateau Chambord as well as for the Chateaux Troussay and Cheverny. We will be stopping by those later in the week. Actually, we'll probably stop at a few more but the combination tickets weren't available. We also picked up 3 bottles of the local wines. They boxed them for us so we could lug them about a little more safely. After we dropped our goodies in the room, we hoped to get in a quick tour of the grounds but as we got to the reception area, we saw the heavens had opened up and there was torrential rain. We took photos of the water logged tourists as they scurried for cover instead.

The hotel, as we've noted, is right on the chateau grounds. It is a maze of rooms. Ours is small but nice and looks out over one of the side canals over flowering trees.

The dining room for dinner is a set of large formal looking rooms with stag heads hanging amongst large black and white photos of wild deer on the grounds. Bill was very adventurous and order the terrine de chevreuil (sp?) Basically deer terrine as he enjoyed the prvious one so much. The chocolate mousse for dessert was especially good. Although we had a small problem with a table of chain smokers sitting by us (the older woman manager comped us the wine) everything at the hotel was very nice. Great tub!

Lin Sue and Bill trek from Ferte St. Cyr to Chambord

We were SO glad to find our hotel.

Lin Sue and Bill trek from Ferte St. Cyr to Chambord

Destination: Le Grand St Michel, 103 Place St. Michel, Chambord

Breakfast and farewells were very warm. The workmen wished us a good journey. The inn keeper was driving our luggage personally to Chambord for us. We took photos and shook hands and headed off to the town's single grocery shop and butcher.

We waited for the grocer to scrupulously update his credit book/tab for the customer ahead of us. The shelves were stocked primarily with pasta and thw makings of various desserts. Interesting. As we picked up mini quiches from the butcher, we were asked whether we were on vacation and where we were headed. It was very nice that people seemed actually interested.

The walk was comparatively short - approximately 4.5 hours or 15 km. We walked through the woods of the Chambord estate. Most of it is a nature perserve and is known for it's annual deer and wild boar hunts. They don't actually kill the deer but capture them and release them in other areas where the population is low. The boar, with a 100 percent population growth, don't get relocated.

Walking up to Chambord chateau was magnificent. The hotel was right in front of the chateau
http://www.chambord.org/

Lin Sue and Bill trek from Ferte St. Cyr to Chambord

As we made our way around the castle moats to the entrance....

Lin Sue and Bill trek from Ferte St. Cyr to Chambord

...we found it even more magical up close

Lin Sue and Bill trek from Ferte St. Cyr to Chambord

One of the views as we walked

Dinner in Ferte St. Cyr

H�tel St Cyr, 15 Faubourg Bretagne, La Fert� St Cyr

As we shown our rooms, we passed workmen who were working on a steam room. Our hostess remarked that we should have waited another week. Man- after that hike, a steam room would definitely have been welcome! Our room had a very nice tub, however, so we weren't so bad off.

Dinner was interesting as there wasn't a menu available. We were entitled to half board as part of the walking tour. We think there was another couple staying at the hotel but there was no evidence of them as we went to dinner.

First course: terrine de cerf (sp?) Otherwise known as deer. Main course: venison stew. The next course was goat cheese and we finished up with apple tart with cinnamon ice cream. It was all really good. Goes to show that sometimes you need to be a little more open to food suggestions.

We went for a brief walk through the town (it was very small and there were very few people around). Everything seemed shut down. After checking where our walking route began as prep for the next day, we returned to the hotel.

Bill and Lin Sue travel from Beaugency to La Ferte St. Cyr, France

We got up bright and early and ran some errands as we prepared for our 22 km hike to La Ferte St. Cyr. First stop: the boulangerie for apple croissants and a baguette. Then off to the grocer's for apples, cheese and a small bottle of wine.

We returned to the hotel for breakfast to find a gentleman dressed in a tuxedo waiting for us. While the fare was simple, everything was excellent. We asked if they had a plastic knife we could have for our upcoming picnic. While he could not provide a lastic knife, he did insist we take a regular bread knife with us for our travels. How nice was that?

The first day of hiking was adventurous on many levels: 22 kms and through vaguely described treks through open fields with no trail markings. Lin Sue almost drove Bill crazy with her compass readings. (Bill's intuition was spot on but it never hurts to check says Lin Sue :-). Haha

We completed the walk in under five hours as we never stoopedfor that picnic after all. (1) We were afraid that it might rain (2) someone was practicing his/her shooting very regularly on the last leg of the trek (3) everything was so water logged, there did not seem any comfortable place to stop.

We are amazed still at all the overflowing river and streams that we passed.

Arrival at La Ferte St. Cyr was like a little homecoming. This place was tiny. The inn keeper's first words were: Beaugency est tres jolie, n'est-ce pas? As though it were the big city. As we walked through the town, we realized that comparatively, it was.

Lin Sue and Bill trek from Ferte St. Cyr to Chambord

We turned a corner and there it was!

Lin Sue and Bill trek from Ferte St. Cyr to Chambord

Lots of Hunting Signs along the way. "Beware of bullets?" Yep- it got our attention

Lin Sue and Bill travel from Tours to Beaugency, France

Hotel Le Grand, 9 Place du Marechal-Leclerc, Tours Phone 33 2 47053531

Our last day in Tours: After a HUGE breakfast (scrambled egg, different kinds of bread, yogurt, juice and coffee), Bill and Lin Sue headed out for the Sunday flea market. (Bill calls it junk day-we aren't sure whether anyone actually sells anything.)

We took the 11 am train to Beaugency and arrived to find a postcard perfect little medival town. There was no one about as the town was pretty much shut down for Sunday. Our hotel was called the Hotl L'Ecu de Bretagne Beaugency and looked to be a former carriage house and courtyard. It began to rain a bit as we explored the town but as we made our way across the town's bridge (for a long time, this bridge was the only one on the Loire between Tours and Orleans) the weather got mean. Bill decided he didn't want to risk his umbrella before our walking tour even started and so opted to recross the bridge back to town without it despite the nearly horizontal driving rain.

Lin Sue, walking behind him with her umbrella open, was quite impressed by the fact that half of Bill's jacket was soaking while the other was relatively dry. :-)
We stopped by a pizzeria for spaghetti bolognese- which truly hit the spot- before returning to the hotel.

Our room was great. We think that we may have been the only guests staying there as it is so early in the season.

Dinner was great. We upgraded the dinner included in the tour's cost as neither of us were evry excited with the original menu. The chef sent out several amuse bouche including salmon mousse with herbal chantilly, onion and olive tartlets and salmon and tomato tartlets. Lin had a smoked duck salad with curry dressing) to start while Bill ordered the scallop soup. Both of us got the bef fillet (yummy!) Accompanied by salad and potatoes au gratin. Bill had the cheese plate and Lin Sue had the salad chvre chaud. Dessert comprised praline sumpreme (too cakey for Lin Sue) and Chocolate Viennoise (sp?) For Bill - wow

We didn't really venture out after dinner as they shut everything up after 9 and gave us the combination number for opening the main doors. We decided we didn't wan to try it

Arrival at La Ferte St. Cyr

The wonderful innkeeper at La Ferte St. Cyr

The Bridge into Beaugency, France April 24, 2005

The Bridge into Beaugency, France.
You can see the Abby in the background.

Lin And Bill travel from La Ferte St. Cyr to Chateau Chambord

Notice the VERY clear trail markings to be found on our walking trip. it was often a "Where's Waldo?" adventure.

Day 1: Walking through the Loire Valley

Ah yes. Notice the clearly marked thrail through the freshly plowed land that we traveled on our first day.

The View as Lin And Bill walk through the Loire Valley

What ARE these flowers anyway? Bill and Lin Sue walked past fields and fields of them

Post script to Lin Sue and Bill's trip to Langeais, France

I forgot to include any information about Langeais and why it typifies why we love small towns in France.

The chateau is really beautiful and is run by a private foundation. The rooms have been lovingly filled with great furniture and the displays focus on the marriage of Anne of Bretagne (age 14) to the 21 year Prince Charles. There was also a photo exhibit from the private collection of the foundation's founder that included images circa 1800 of exotic places like India, Egypt, Syria, and Japan. One photo of a Japanese family in their garden looked like it was out of "Pacific Overtures".

Anyway, we had lots of time to kill before our train back to Tours so we went to the local Cultural Exhibition. The gentleman who ran it was so excited to have us there, he gave us a walk through of some of the more entertaining exhibits. The theme was 'tricks of the eye' and so you got to ask 'is it a frog or a horse?'. It was fun. He gave a small card/coin trick show for the people in the gallery that was very amusing as well. We had a great time.

Lin and Bill get to Langeais

Sorry about the radio silence-Lin Sue's Blackberry hit a blind spot for a couple of days so we couldn't post anything.

After we caught the belated train from Tours, we were able to make the connection to Langeais. [Info about the town and the castle at: http://www.casteland.com/puk/castle/centre/indreloire/langeais/langeais.htm] (They held the train at Tours, thank goodness.). The town was very picturesque-- lots of planted flowers and little parks to sit in. Bill and I picked up some fresh strawberries and potato chips (come on of course Lin Sue needs chips!).

We studiously avoided the very retentive fellow traveler who kept asking about the return train to Tours. She was alone and seemed to be trying to catch our eye as though she wanted to join us. (We're not that friendly, however. Oops). It's terribly lonely I think to travel alone.

We returned to Tours and decided to get a quick dinner at Hippopotamus as it was threatening to rain. Bill had "the worst barbeque ribs he's ever had in his life". While Lin shared her steak.
:-)

See you later!

Bill in Langeais, France 2005

Bill in Langeais, France 2005

Lin Sue and Bill return to Amboise, France 8 years later

We got up early this morning, picked up egg mcmuffins and coffee and grabbed the 9 am train to Amboise from the Tours station. Once we arrived, we headed over the bridge towards the Chateau d'Amboise.

Something's happening because the banks of the Loire River are completely submerged. A good hunk of the stone levies (?), or whatever they are called, are under water. We are truly hoping that our hikes do not require many trails alongside the water.

Amboise is still quiet and gorgeous. We walked along our favorite streets and located the patisserie where we had once breakfasted every morning. There was official looking sign that proclaimed it to be a boulangerie artisan. The woman who has served us was not there and the breakfast table was replaced by a large display area but otherwise, it looked the same. How nice for us!

The weather looked a little dodgy and we were hoping that it didn't pour. All seems well so far but we prepared.

Returning home proved to be traumatic.

The train we hoped to take was approximately 1 hour and 15 mins late. We wandered a little more and had a great time.

April 23, 2005 Lin Sue in Langeais

Info about the castle and the town at: http://www.casteland.com/puk/castle/centre/indreloire/langeais/langeais.htm
Going into Chateau Langeais

Lin Sue on the Chateau Langeais grounds April 2005

Lin Sue on the Chateau Langeais grounds

First Day in Tours

We arrived in Tours without incident and were able to check into our room early. Thank goodness. Despite all the light filling the room, Bill and I crashed for a couple of hours before venturing out into town.

Le Grand Hotel is directly across from the train station so it's definitely easy to navigate. We went back to the brasserie that had previously offered chevre chaud salad with lardon. Unfortunately, we were too early for dinner and it was not immediately obvious on their menu. We instead wandered to the next place. The young waiter was very funny and while he did give Lin Sue a hard time by pretending there was no Peach Melba to be found (Don't tease Lin Sue like that!!!) we had a fine time. We returned back to the hotel and crashed

Medieval Buildings in Beaugency, France

Threatening Clouds in Beaugency, France

Bill having a picnic outside of Chateau Langeais

Chateau Langeais

Bill in Amboise- deciding not to take that final step....

Bill in Amboise- The Loire is running a tad high

we got upgraded on our flight to Paris!

Bill and Lin Sue arrived at JFK airport with no problem at all. Trying to plan ahead and compensate for a sad dinner on board, we stopped by Burger King and had a couple of burgers.

When we arrived at the gate and were trying to board, however, the attendants stopped us because our boarding passes were not automatically accepted by the machine.

Hooray- we were upgraded to business class! Thank goodness for overbooked flights and Medallion status!

We were fed and cosseted very nicely by the Delta staff. Once we arrived in Paris, we were met by Danielle's driver and taken to Gare D'Austerlitz. The weather is sunny but doesn't seem as warm as it did in New York. We were told that they expect rain this afternoon and tomorrow. We figure that's OK so long as it's still warm.

Lin Sue and Bill go on a walking tour of the Loire Valley

We'll be flying from Kennedy Airport this afternoon into Paris, France. Luckily, we have a driver meeting us [a friend of Bill's is making the arrangements] and he'll drive us to Gare d'Austerlitz.

We'll be taking the train to Tours and expect to arrive about noon.

So far, I've had serious angst about packing. Not really sure what the weather will be like and have to have clothes for the 10 days of hiking as well as 10 days of nice dinners.

Keeping my fingers crossed that I've got the right combination...
-Lin Sue